2010/04/13

The Tale of Two Hakka Rice Noodles/粄條大亂鬥

The Tale of Two Hakka Rice Noodles/粄條大亂鬥

昨晚第N+1次去吳家滷肉飯大快朵頤。此行的任務是炒粄條,因為上回吳媽媽很自慢地推薦。菜單上只有乾拌粄條。這道菜不在菜單上,是常客專享。

Last evening was my N+1st time visiting Wu's Family Braised Pork Rice. The goal for this visit was Fried Hakka Noodles. Ms. Wu recommended this dish with pride in my previous visit. It is not on the menu. Only regulars are aware of its existence.

Hakka Rice Noodle/乾拌粄條

Fried Hakka Rice Noodle/炒粄條

果然名不虛傳。跟我想的一樣,是把粄條跟肉燥一起炒,把滷湯收到粄條裏。很入味。跟乾拌粄條比起來,是分庭抗禮,各有千秋:炒粄條較入味,但乾拌因為幾乎不入味,所以味道多了層次。如果要強分高下,其實要看食客當時的心情及個人偏好。

It is as good as I expected: fried with braised minced pork, all the juice is absorbed by the noodle. Hence the noodle is packed with flavour. Compared with the original version, they are equally good. The original version is a mosaic of flavours, where as fried is packed with concentrated power. Therefore, the result of this competition depends on the craving of the customer before the moment of enjoyment.

對廚師來說,用炒的更加費工、費燃料。而且要雞蛋裏挑骨頭的話,用炒的,火氣相對要大些。難怪聰明的吳媽媽不把它放到菜單上。

From the chef point of view, the fried version takes a lot more work. No wonder the smart Ms. Wu does not put it on the regular menu.

Pork Liver/豬肝
Tender and cooked to perfection/豬肝很嫩。火候很正。

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